The key to not wrecking the geometry is matching the axle-to-crown (A2C). Because suspension forks are measured with dynamic sag, the corrected A2C is roughly the extended length minus the sag, and the replacement rigid should be close to that corrected A2C, not the fully extended length. Too short closes the head angle (twitchy); too long opens it (slow). Also match wheel size, axle (Boost 15x110 or QR) and steerer tube. Before deciding, review rigid vs suspension and check what fork fits your bike.
The number almost everyone reads wrong is the A2C: match it to the extended length instead of the corrected one and you change how the bike steers.
The axle-to-crown is the distance between the wheel axle and the fork crown. That number sets the front height and, with it, the head angle. If the rigid has an A2C close to what your suspension had while riding, the geometry holds. If not, the bike's character changes.
The detail almost no one accounts for: a suspension fork, mounted and under your weight, sinks by the sag. So the real ride height isn't the extended one but the corrected A2C, roughly the extended minus the sag. That's the figure the rigid should get close to.
A rigid that's too short lowers the front and closes the head angle: the bike becomes twitchy and quick in the hands. One that's too long raises the front and opens the angle: the steering becomes slow and lazy. That's why the goal is to get close to the corrected A2C.
Send us your current fork model and your sag and we'll tell you which corrected A2C to aim for on your rigid. Message us on WhatsApp
Above all the corrected A2C (extended minus the sag), not the extended one. Plus wheel size, axle type (Boost 15x110 or QR) and steerer tube.
Because under your weight the suspension sinks by the sag; the real ride height is less than the extended one.
Short closes the angle (twitchy); long opens it (slow). Get close to the corrected one.
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